by Steve Siegel

     I have always wondered why, on any given birdwalk, there are several people with cameras, usually quite expensive ones, but only rarely a videographer.  Just about everyone has a camcorder. Why not use it?  Perhaps it's because the camcorder has always been a poor cousin to the still camera.  Perhaps people want to get a result similar to the wonderful stuff they see on calendars, and know that their camcorder at home won't do it. Perhaps it's because there are several websites where photographers can get and give help with their nature photography, and lots of books that tell you what to do, but none for video.

     Well, it's time to remedy the situation.   This page is devoted to video basics. It is intended for those who look at birds and see in them the magic of life and who want to capture and examine the magic for themselves in movement and sound.  It is intended for those who only have a small consumer camcorder to do it with. 

     Videotaping birds is different from what you have done with human subjects in many ways.  Birds are small, so you need to be close, or use telephoto.  Birds move fast, and on their own.  Unlike a human film, you can't direct the talent.  As in most wildlife video, the scene you want may not happen on your schedule.  Patience is a requirement.  If you plan to share what you shoot with others, video always requires a story.  It's unfortunate, but true.  A string of unrelated videoclips of birds, no matter how well-shot, will be boring.  This is a roundabout way of saying that shooting and showing video may be fun, but it's also work.  So before going further, it is appropriate to consider if video is really what you are looking for.

    Equipment.   How to get watchable video without taking a loan from the bank.

    Camcorder Settings.

    In the Field .   Some things videographers should know.

    Audiotapes.   Love 'em or hate 'em.

Video vs. Photography: Different Frames of Mind

     One question facing the beginning videographer is should I take photos or video?  I started videotaping birds as a way to get a lot of stopped-action photos fast and cheap.  After all, 30 frames per second, and $6.00 for a tape that runs an hour...such a deal.  Over 100,000 images in an hour.  Surely a few of them would be good enough to keep. That was 20 years ago, and such an attitude was as naive then as it is now.  Even though camcorders now shoot in the megapixel range (and it took them a long time to get there), if you want good still shots, use a camera.  There is a whole lot more to getting good photos than taking tons of them and hoping.  The technology for focusing and light control is just a lot farther along with digital cameras.

     But there is a difference between photo and video bigger than focal lengths, f-stops and metering.  It's what you do with what you get.  It's the story. Every photograph has a story.  Take one we have all seen, a Northern Gannet frozen in flight, facing the camera, with that menacing beak, crisp primaries, eyes straining to look forward, and that indescribably beautiful golden head.  A story can be told to you by the photographer while your eyes pore over the image.  Where was it shot? When? How? With whom?  Was it hard to get? Dangerous? Humorous? What was the bird doing? What were the camera settings? and on and on.  A few of these make an entertaining and informative slide show. But you can spend hours just looking at photographs, no story needed.

     Video is different. Much more than a photo, video needs a story. It's something we have all learned from watching movies and TV.  Our brains are programmed. Video=Story telling. And that story rarely contains any of the elements that a photo's story would.  It consists of only the action on the screen and any embellishments you can give as a narrator.  You can't describe how you almost fell off the cliff, or that another bird pooped on your head unless you have a long enough run of good footage to cover your talking time, or actual video of someone falling off a cliff or getting pooped on.  While a photographer can spin a yarn for many minutes over one picture, you can only talk while the footage fits your words.   Trying to talk about something that is not actually visible on the screen confuses and turns off your audience.   

A photograph challenges the viewer. "Look at me.  See what you can find.  Compare me to your own experiences, or be amazed at something new."  A video entices the viewer. "Watch me.  Enter my world. Accept what you see and hear.  I am here to inform and entertain you."  The experience between the two is very different.  Don't shoot video if what you want to say is in a photo, because saying something in video is much more difficult.

That said, I think that as an activity, video is much more satisfying than photography. This stems from a photo being a frozen instant of time, while a video is ongoing through time.  One is like seeing a beautiful girl pass by a window, the other is like going on a date with her.  My favorite avian example is a flying swan.  A photo captures tiny details of beak, eye, and feather structure, as well as the glories of sunlight through translucent wings bent against a blue sky. A video does some of this, but less well.  Instead it emphasizes the wave-like undulation of the neck with each wingbeat, the strain on the wings as they try to gain the air, the alert face, looking for danger, and the sound of the bird, honking as it approaches.  See the difference?  Each medium has a different goal.

     If you prefer movement, and sound to the perfect image, video is for you.  If you want to capture the bird as it presents itself, not idealized for a split second with flash, video is for you. If you are fascinated by flight, or bird song, video is for you.  If you enjoy taking a lot of material, and piecing something new out of the best parts of it, video editing is definitely for you.

     You probably already have a camcorder.  It may be useable. Inexpensive camcorders are really good now.  We will be talking about "consumer camcorders".  These are generally small, boxy, with no external microphone visible, and under $1,000 US.  In 2008 under $500 will get you a standard definition model, over $500 buys high definition.  All are digital.  Stick with high definition (HD).  I am personally familiar with the Canon HV series (current model HV 30, $800.) and like them. Panasonic, JVC, and Sony offer comparable equipment.

        Here is what to look for in a small camcorder for bird  videography.

        1. Sturdiness.  Try to maximize metal and minimize plastic.  You will be using your instrument both as a camcorder and a play deck for editing.  It will get a lot of use and abuse.
        2.  Plays both standard definition (SD) and high definition (HD).  This allows you to use any old tapes you might have.  Comes in handy.
        3.  Records to tape.  These are getting harder to find, and it's a shame.  With tape you have unlimited storage.  With a camcorder that records to a hard drive, what do you do when the hard drive fills up? You have to either download it to another hard drive, erase and start over, or use memory cards that may not even accept HD.  Considering that 70 to 80 percent of your footage will not be useable, it makes a lot of sense to be using $6.00 tapes that each hold 14 gigabytes of SD video and a comparable amount of HD video (with some minor compression).  Finding desired footage on time-coded tape is easy. The fact that all the manufacturers use tape in their high-end camcorders tells us something.  I recommend staying away from disc drive camcorders for now.
        4. Has an eyepiece viewfinder, not just a flip-out screen.  In bright sun you won't be able to see the screen image.
       5.  Manual Controls.  It really hurts to write this, but here goes.  Forget manual controls.  Small camcorder manufacturers have made the manual iris (exposure) a menu item. By the time you access it your shot may be gone.  Manual focus is still available on some camcorders, but guess what.  The viewfinders on these little machines are SO BAD that you can't see what's in focus anyway. Use auto focus.  If you are using a larger, "prosumer" unit, then manual controls become important, especially for the Canon XL series.
        6.  Optical zoom.  Camcorders used to offer a 20x optical zoom.  Now the standard is 10x or 12x.  Not great for birding, but you get what you pay for.  Note: this is not digital zoom, which is a gimmick that gives a bigger image by enlarging the pixels, not by using a zoom lens. You will rarely use the digital zoom, and then only where no one is looking closely, because it pixellates horribly.  The limited offering in optical zoom increases the need for...
         7.  Screw threads in front of the lens. Very important.  Sooner or later you will want to screw in a telephoto lens attachment ($50 to $150). Not all camcorders have these threads.  Some look like they do but it's just styling. Look and ask when you buy.

     Telephoto lenses.

          These will actually let you do some small birds at close distances, like a feeder from your house.        They will increase the number of flight shots you can attempt.  The selection of telephoto lenses for small camcorders is, mercifully, limited.  They are all between 1.4 X and 2 X and $150 or less.
           There are a few  brands.  See what is recommended as an accessory for your camcorder on a reliable website, like B & H.  Some are ridiculously cheap and have plastic lenses.  You want glass. Weigh before you buy.  Heavy is good, and that's why good screw threads are important.  A step-up ring may be needed to fit the camcorder.  The screw threads, the lens housing, the step-up ring, all are going to be plastic, and easy to break or strip.  Extreme caution is the rule. You will probably see vignetting (fuzzy edges) when trying to shoot normal or wide angle through one of these.  Take it off.  This accessory is only for telephoto.  Wide angle ones are also available, but that's not for birding.  Homemade helper.  Buy a piece of 1/8th inch foam at a craft supply.  Your favorite color.  Cut a rectangular strip out of it long enough to wrap around the telephoto lens and wide enough to stick out in front 2 or 3 inches.  Hold it in place with a rubber band.  Instant, foldable, non-tearing lens hood.
       One major problem with screw-on telephotos is that they are wide. The autofocus sensor may be blocked, causing auto focus to be slow or not to work. 

       Using a tripod.

     You need a tripod.  I watch a lot of bird video online, and whenever one is shot hand held it is so shaky and woozy that I just turn it off.  I'm sure other do to, and they will yours also.  Birds are always shot in telephoto and the magnification extends to camera movement.  A 10 X lens will increase the shake 10 X.  You often can't see this in the viewfinder.  The image is too small.  But get it home on the TV or computer and shake is all too evident. 
      There is good new for anyone using a small consumer-grade camcorder.  You can effectively use a cheap tripod.  Anyone shooting with a professional or "pro-sumer" camcorder needs to get a good tripod with a good fluid head.  They cost bucks, and are very heavy.  You needn't worry, for with a little trick, a small photographic tripod, with an inexpensive photo-type head will work fine with a little camcorder.
      Here's the trick.  You use the tripod as a support for your arms, but shoot handheld.  Sit in front of a table and put your hands together.  Now rest your elbows on the table. Measure the distance between them.  It should be about  one foot. Buy a 1x4 piece of pine at your local hardware.  Cut a piece about a foot long, or a little longer than your elbow measurements.  Obtain a screw insert, either the "T" type that hammers in or a screw-in type.  The size should be 1/4" to fit a 1/4" screw.  Drill a hole in the center of your 1x4 and place the screw insert.  Now you can screw this board onto the tripod, using the camera mount screw in the head.  Grab your camcorder, adjust the tripod height, rest your elbows on it, and shoot away with remarkable steadiness.  This method is especially useful for flight shots, because you can pan over wide angles with little body movement, and little jerkiness. For bird that are still, you can remove the board, attach the camcorder to the tripod, and shoot that way, if you wish.  It's cheap, lightweight and easy to travel with.
A Busy Morning At Brigantine was shot using this technique.

      So What Can I Shoot With My Little Camcorder and Cheap Tripod?

      Anything you want, but let's be realistic.  You want the experience to be fun and the result something to be proud of.  The best things to shoot are those that will not be hurried.

• Scenics involving a slow, short pan.
• Birds not moving a lot such as feeding egrets, swimming ducks, resting shorebirds, perched hawks, singing male passerines such as thrushes, mimic thrushes, sparrows.
• Woodpeckers, bluebirds and other box or hole nesters at nests.
• Bird Feeder scenes.
  Flight scenes. Not close-up, but where the surroundings are an important part of the image, and there are multiple birds.  Think Maynard Reese's duck stamps.  

      Your work is not done until the paperwork is finished.

     Of course, by paperwork, I mean editing.  This is too big an area to discuss here, and my knowledge is limited, anyway.  But you do need to edit your video.  No one will watch your raw footage, and it's rude to even ask them.  Buy a good editing software, that is easy to use.  I personally like Adobe Premiere Pro  Elements for it's price, and because it is often bundled with Photoshop Elements, a very useful program to have on hand while you edit video.  These two will handle just about any situation in video editing, and probably way more than you will need.
     Editing video is not quick and easy.  It takes more time than you expect, but if you are creative at all, you will find it hugely pleasurable.  Here are a couple of tips on editing, learned the hard way.

     1. Cut freely.  The beginnings and endings of clips tend to be shaky because you are making adjustments.  Remove them.
     2.  Watch how your subjects move.  Try to keep the direction of movement consistent as you place one clip next to another. Your software should let you flip any clip horizontally.
     3.  Don't be afraid of abrupt cuts.  Our eyes are used to them from years of watching TV. You don't need to put a transition every time.
     4.  Don't forget the audio.  Your presentation will be only as good as the audio. This doesn't only apply to obvious environmental noises that may be removable, but electrical hum as well.  Clean these up.  Edit with a set of headphones on.  It's the only way to hear everything your sharp-eared audience will pick up. Your editing software will have a basic suite of audio tools.  There are better ones available for a modest cost on the Internet.  One example is Goldwave.

     What you can do in editing bird video is limited only by your imagination.  Have fun.

     I'm not going to discuss focus and aperture and shutter speed.  There are plenty of books and websites that deal with them for digital cameras, and the principles are the same. With your small camcorder, you will be running on automatic most of the time anyway. 

In the field.  Flight.

        Exciting flight video is easy with a small camcorder. 

• Birds are usually far enough away that camera shake is not important.  Your elbow tripod is steady enough. 
• Since the background is usually sky, it is automatically homogeneous, just like being out of focus.  So your subject retains importance even if it is far away and small.  The chase scene in "Brigantine" is basically two dots, but it always elicits gasps as the hawk closes in. 
• Some busy, in focus, background (or foreground) is not so bad.  Here is a flight of ravens.  Don't you think that interest is added as they dip down in front of the ridge?  Look at this Snail Kite as he passes behind some brush and comes out the other side.  It adds drama and realism.
• Another effective shot is the hawk soaring in front of puffy cumulus clouds.  Pink ones at sunset or sunrise are nice.   

            A good set up will give you good video. A bad set up, bad. Setting up is really just common sense.  Let's look at ducks landing in a marsh.  You need to put yourself with the sun at your back.  You need to be far enough away from the birds as not to scare them. You need to have waving reeds OUT OF THE FRAME.  This is very easy to overlook, and will ruin your shots. You need to have the tripod at a comfortable height with the legs such that you don't trip over them with panning. The horizon, or the far edge of the water, needs to be level.

      Be sure to stand somewhere with a clear view to the sides as well as ahead.  Remember, you want to follow the action.  Blinds do not work with larger camcorders, because you can't pan through the little holes, and the microphone hits the wall.  Little camcorders have no such limits, however.  Shoot away.

       Now you're ready to film.  Here come some ducks.  Oops, missed.  That's OK.  Birds really are preprogrammed creatures.  They will do what you want again.  It's true.  These are not mammals we're dealing with.  Mammals are smart, unpredictable.  Lose one and it's gone. Birds, especially in flocks, will do what their friends do. You usually get two or three chances.  There are a few little rules that many birds follow that will give you an advantage to know about. Feeding is usually followed by preening.  There may be a rest period in between,  maybe  half an hour. Preening is a good time to see feathers usually hidden.  Birds land and take off into the wind.  An agitated bird will probably take off.

In the field.  Getting down and dirty.

     Shooting shorebirds, waders or waterfowl lets you get down on the ground for views at a new angle.  It's only a few feet, but lowering yourself makes the shot look more intimate. In addition, the background becomes farther away than when shooting at a downward angle, and is easier to blur, making the subject more prominent. This maneuver can turn a good video into a memorable one.

In the field.  Following the crowd.

       I think that wildlife videography is best done alone, but there are times when you will be in a group.  This is especially true during migration when all the good spots with lots of warblers have lots of birders.  Birders loves to point out where the good birds are, and you can get lots of good material by walking with them.  They don't stay in any one place very long, so if you hang back, you can get a solitary session with a bird you might not have found yourself.

        Shooting in the company of photographers is different.  To be blunt, try to avoid it.
Photographers' cameras are amazingly noisy.  Your audio will pick up every whir and click.
Photographers talk a lot, usually not about the bird.  You will pick all this up, too. It then has to be edited out and replaced by a soundtrack that you may or may not have been able to (or remembered to) make. Digital cameras don't have the telephoto reach of camcorders, and there is always one guy in the group who has to get in for a close-up.  Just while you are filming. Nine times out of ten he gets his 1/500th of a second exposure, but flushes the bird before you are finished.  He doesn't realize that he's ruining your video, or he probably wouldn't do it, but you can't say anything without being rude.  When you see the cameras come out, film away, but have a backup plan.

In the field.  Audiotapes.

        Audiotapes, or recordings of birds' song can be used to attract them for filming.  This sometimes controversial pursuit is discussed here.